Tag Archives: food

Guest post: Missing the Mark

The following is a guest post by Kelly Hogaboom who writes and tweets with great wit and candour about rad stuff like feminism, non-punitive parenting, body image, cooking and sewing, life and love (and much else besides).

Phoenix (Then Sophie) On Her Third Birthday

These days I’m a pretty hearty soul. I have a fair degree of equanimity that has been hard-won. Still, I’m only human. And as I pen this I’ve just returned from a lunch date with old family friends. I found myself, quite suddenly, stuck in a corner (literally and figuratively) while these old friends argued toward me about

 
 
If you’ve spent any time in the social wellbeing or social justice spheres you might have a more nuanced view than the mainstream media regarding: obesity (childhood and “regular”, ha), “healthy” food, and epicurean snobbery waged against the most socioeconomically disadvantaged. I hardly blame anyone who might read Michelle Alison’s piece, linked above, and find their belief system challenged – after all, most conventional wisdom out there is full of ableism, orthorexia, classism, adultism and mommy-shaming -
 
and more important to me, at root really, a profound lack of compassion and open-mindedness.
 
This conversation was no different. Within seconds I heard about “personal responsibility”, people who “sit around all day feeling bad about themselves and playing video games”, and the cheapness of whole grains – all this and more by a group of middle-class people eating a fifteen-dollar-a-plate meal of cheesy pizza, salads loaded with ranch dressing, and pop. I should note the video game comment was uttered by a man who misheard my mention of the [US] “Farm Bill” as FarmVille – and who admitted he didn’t know what the Farm Bill is.
 
It would almost be funny if it wasn’t such tired, depressing, and well-trod ground.
 
Never lost on me is sameness of the script with which some of these parties speak. They will often cite a female ancestor who supposedly fed an entire family on just pennies and fed the neighborhood besides. They often require those the most marginalized or disadvantaged to eat and live a certain way, and be exposed to scrutiny and lectures they themselves do not practice nor endure. During one such conversation a friend of mine, a mother of one and an at-home wife to a man earning six figures, espoused the economy of beans and apples while slicing into the peanut butter pie made with full-fat organic ingredients and Gran Marnier (I shouldn’t have to tell you she underquoted the price of bulk beans and apples… because she doesn’t have to know those prices, naturally).
 
These conversations have thus far broken my heart but never more so than today, given I work quite regularly with recovering alcoholics and addicts and I see the hard work that goes into survival – and I hear the experiences of low-self worth they’ve often internalized. Many of those I work with got life’s start in the most profoundly disadvantaged circumstances (poverty, abuse of all horrific varieties, neglect from parent/carer, etc), and who today are working against many odds and in a temporary or semi-permanent state of Survival Mode – making the meetings that sustain them, shuffling court dates and problems with the law and job re-training, all while living on a fraction of what my partner earns and without an at-home partner (like myself) to soak those beans and slice those apples and knead that bread. (The confidentiality of this volunteer work is sacrosanct enough that, even writing off my home blog, the circumstances of my small-town dictates I don’t cite too many specifics.) 
 
Suffice to say I am regularly exposed to and work hand-in-hand helping these individuals (I am a recovering alcoholic as well) – not all of whom can’t afford expensive food – and I see them as Human Beings doing their best – after all, longterm recovery from addiction and alcoholism is Personal Responsibility at a profoundly deep level. To think of the casual hate these people endure when standing in line with their packets of ten cent Top Ramen or with a bag of Arby’s for dinner just sucks.
 
Now, I’m not saying anyone at the table today was particularly hateful. It’s just, despite hearing these kinds of vitriolic arguments in public spaces and online I was still, somehow, caught off-guard to hear these thoughts echoed by my friends. I let myself get sucked into an argument I’ve in the past found deeply unproductive. Was it wrong I spoke up about my practice of compassion, and from my direct experiences working directly with those living on cheap food? No. Where I went wrong was to forget a lesson I’ve been served before: you cannot argue compassion into someone. 
 
You cannot argue compassion into someone.
 
What can I do next time, besides committing this lesson to memory? Well, in my best self I would have retained a curiosity as to why these people felt so angry about those who “eat unhealthy”. I would have listened a bit more and been less quick to talk. Yes, I may think I know why these people said the same things I’ve heard so many times before, but today I didn’t ask questions but rather assumed The Usual Suspects: a buy-into the prevalent spiritual and emotional formations of Scarcity, the myth of the United States as a meritocracy, the desire to Other those less fortunate and therefore operate on a false sense of security, and perhaps the injudicious consumption of mainstream media with it’s obsessive and unproductive riverflow of War on Obesity rhetoric. Yeah, I might be most the way right about what I was hearing, but now I do not know if I was correct or incorrect – because I did not listen.
 
As an epilogue: I did end up feeling a bit better shortly after this lunch gone awry. Back in the car with just my own children I felt rattled for a moment as I turned over my engine. But sitting for a minute the deepest experience of gratitude washed over me, because I have a few assets: including my two children and the human beings they’ve evidenced themselves to be. They are, today, entirely generous, whip-smart, and so incredibly less likely than I to let others’ angst affect their values and their practice of love. It might sound like I’m veering into bragging about my parenting; I’m not. My children and their compassion aren’t supplied here to justify my performance as a mother – I am relating that they give me a great deal of hope. They are two human beings who evidence great intelligence, a desire for right speech, a commitment to friendship, and, often, a peace that passes human understanding.
 
Two human beings who, today, hug my drug-addict friends and my middle-class grouchy foodies – beings who all suffer in their own ways – with earnestness, deep affection, and a profound spiritual centeredness.
 
I might not always get it right. But I have some pretty good mentors to help me along.
 

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Let us eat cake

Being a fat* mother in this age of Childhood Obesity Crisis headlines is a bit of an occupational hazard. Fat mothers** garner more stares, more scrutiny of the contents of our supermarket trolleys, more pointed looks if our kids eat something sugary in public, more derision from health professionals, more stigmatization and mockery in the media. Feeling as though I’m at the receiving end of this could just be my imagination… except that it’s not. Because I’ve been on the giving end of that judgement and so has just about everyone I know.

Until Bean was about a year old, she was a tiny slip of a thing. She never gained a lot of weight, never had chubby thighs and arms. I was hyper-aware of this and always stressed about it, partly because I was breastfeeding her and partly because, whenever people commented ‘wow, she must take after her father’ I suspected their incredulity was because of my weight. I’m big, why wasn’t she? (Of course, if she had been a particularly chubby baby, I would have been on the receiving end of a lot of negative attention for that, so once again a mother can’t really win.)

These days Bean is robust and tall. I am still hyper-aware of any hinted criticism of her growth, because it’s something I know all too well. Being past the baby stage, she’s fair game for the obesity police. Not that she’s fat (and for fuckssake I shouldn’t have to add that as a disclaimer but, you know, in case you were wondering about my two year old’s girth, there it is.)

This hyper-awareness has followed on to commentary on what Bean eats and how, for obvious reasons. Like most aspects of parenting, I have put a lot of thought into our approach to nutrition. My parents didn’t get it right and my boarding school sure didn’t – and I’m not going to say that’s the reason I’m fat, but it is definitely one of the many reasons why my weight naturally hovers around at ‘fat’ instead of just ‘solid’ (which is what I clearly am genetically). Obviously, for her health and wellbeing and enjoyment of life, The Fireman and I want to get the food thing right for Bean as well as the body image and self esteem thing, whatever size and shape she grows up to be.

I have embraced the Health At Every Size ethos. I am anti-diet. I am anti-demonising food. I am pro-activity-because-it-feels-good, pro-nourishing-food-because-it-tastes-good and I am pro-body awareness  and positive self esteem. All of this is easy to spot from a distance. But the nuts and bolts of how I feed my child and why? I thought I’d write about that in more detail here, so I can always refer the Don’t Eat That It’s Fattening crowd back here right before I tell them to get the hell away from my daughter.

Basically, in this house we practice division of responsibility, Ellyn Satter style. I am pleased to say that I first heard about this concept from the local health nurse, so it is something that government guidelines are all for. And it really, really works.

This, my friends, is the golden rule for fighting Childhood Obesity DEATHFAT BOOGA BOOGA from the safety of your own homes:

It is our job to choose which food to offer to our children, and when. It is their job to decide whether to eat what we offer, and how much to eat.

That’s it! The simplicity is breathtaking, no?

Of course, it makes sense to mainly choose foods which are nourishing and to offer a range of foods so that children develop diverse palates and are familiar with all kinds of food. Choosing mainly home-cooked food can help to avoid too much stripping of nutrients or adding of chemicals. It is wise to have a healthy attitude towards the reality that ‘junk’ food exists and that overeating is sometimes part of celebrations, and to balance that with a moderation approach. It makes sense to avoid any foods that are allergy or intolerance triggers and to practice food safety. It’s important to share meal times where possible, and make food as well as activity a positive part of life. And it also makes sense to do other wonderful things like choosing organic, and involving children in food preparation, and trying recipes with health-promoting foods like legumes. All of those things are wonderful and we try to do them at our place. But at the end of the day, I know that as long as Bean obeys the first rule of nutrition – eat or die -*** she’ll be fine.

Choosing to feed Bean in this way has made my life so much easier in many ways. Here’s how it works for us:

Bean is a hungry person in the morning, so for breakfast she will eat what I prefer to eat (generally toast or porridge) in roughly similar quantities to me.

For morning tea, we will have some fresh fruit and perhaps a biscuit or a piece of muffin or cake. (Often these baked things are homemade, but not because I’m inherently virtuous. I make them myself because they taste so much better that way, and yes, the lack of chemicals and trans fats and excess sugar and salt is a bonus. But you know what, I don’t beat myself up if she eats a commercial cookie. Life is too short for ridiculous aims and excessive guilt.) Bean has yet to learn to restrict her eating (ie. to diet) and therefore she naturally eats intuitively, like all children. This means some days she will eat the fruit and leave the baked goods because she just doesn’t feel like it. I never prompt her to do this, because that would be overstepping where my responsibility lies. And when you do that, you start to dull the body-awareness which makes a person sometimes reach for fruit instead of cake in the first place.

For lunch, Bean will often have what I like to call a ‘tasting plate’. I will give her a sandwich, or some crackers with hummous, or maybe a cheesy bread roll, or a vegetable muffin. And with that there’ll be fresh fruit, maybe some cheese, cherry tomatoes, that type of thing. All easy to prepare and transportable. She picks and chooses what she feels like. (Often lunch is more of a scheduled snack, since she ate so much at breakfast!)

Afternoon tea works like morning tea.

Dinner is what we’re eating, plus dessert. We offer her the dessert course (fresh or cooked fruit, sometimes yoghurt or custardy type things) along with the main meal. Sometimes she will eat dessert first and then go for mains, sometimes not. Sometimes all she will eat is fruit. I’m okay with that – she’ll eat more of the other food groups tomorrow. (One meal, one day, one week of eating is never the end of the world or the beginning of the descent into Health Crisis Obesity Land.)

This only works because We trust her to know what she needs and how hungry she is. And importantly, because she trusts us to provide her with plenty of nutritious food at regular intervals. This would not work at all if Bean was insecure about food: if she feared she wouldn’t get lunch, she’d overeat at morning tea. If she felt like cake was something she only got when she was ‘good’, she’d pig out on it and leave the boring old fruit, every time. We don’t bribe her to eat, we don’t praise her for eating (except to praise her for trying a new food she was unsure of) and we don’t reward or soothe her with food. We also don’t restrict her intake at the set meal times: if she wants more potato, she gets more. Food is a normal part of her life, it is a (hopefully) enjoyable part of our family time, and it’s morally neutral. Eating cake is not a sin. Eating wholewheat crackers with low fat cottage cheese is not ‘being good’. It’s just eating.

At celebrations like birthday parties, the option to control what to offer and when to offer it is usually out of my hands. But that’s okay, because in life we celebrate with food and Bean is learning that it’s normal to have some days of a different sort of eating. She is learning that at birthday parties, you can eat half your body weight in cake and MSG-covered snack foods if she wants to. Thing is, she never actually does this. She does sometimes eat so many strawberries she gives herself a stomach ache but I trust that in time she will learn that this, too, is not good for her body. She will learn to make other choices for herself.

The difficult part of all of this is not for her, at all, because she’s not really having to do anything new. We are born knowing how to eat. But it’s difficult for me. Because if my child is at a party eating a lot of cake, or if she is out for afternoon tea with me and she eats a whole muffin, or if we are on a long drive and we decide that a rare trip to MacDonald’s suits us all, there is judgement. I know that people think that I will feed my daughter up to be fat because it’s been said to me. I know people think that I am fat because I have no clue about nutrition or because I’m lazy, because it’s been said to me. I know that people think that no matter what my lifestyle is like, the mere fact that I exist and I am fat means that my daughter will grow up to emulate me (which is, according to these people, an inherently bad thing.) Thus, I know that sharing an icecream or other ‘bad’ food out with her in public risks derision and being the fodder of someone’s dinner party conversation about What Is Wrong With The World and how too many of our taxes go to pay for Stupid Obese People.

I can’t determine what size Bean will grow into, but I can help her to love her body as it is. I can also help her to know how to nourish it well in a world that wants to make a virtue out of starving, and how to hold on to her current love of moving for the joy of it. And frankly, if that’s not good enough for the Obesity Police, I don’t want to hear about it. Because where the goal is purely thinness and not health, I’m simply not interested.

* I don’t use fat as a pejorative, but as a descriptor. I don’t use the term ‘overweight’ because it implies that there is some particular weight which everyone should be, when in fact everyone has their own individual ‘healthy weight range’ and mine might well be over yours.

** I say fat mother instead of fat parent for a reason. It is almost invariably mothers who are given responsibility for their child’s eating (and therefore weight), especially in the media. I don’t doubt that fat fathers go through similar things when they’re out and about and eating with their kids though.

*** The first rule of nutrition = eat or die. That’s it. All the other rules, healthy eating tables etc. are useful guidelines but they don’t always apply to individuals and the bottom line is that food – even ‘junk food’ – keeps us alive. Thanks to The Fat Nutritionist for that one.

—-

I didn’t make any of this stuff up.  For further reading on this, try

How To Get Your Kid To Eat… But Not Too Much by Ellyn Satter

Health At Every Size, The Suprising Truth About Your Weight by Linda Bacon

This post (or any) from The Fat Nutritionist

What Michelle Obama’s Childhood Obesity Initiative Gets Wrong by Kate Harding

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Filed under Body Image/Fat Acceptance, Feminism, Motherhood and Parenting, Musings, Reflections and Rantings

Baby’s first biscuits

Christmas Tree Cookies

baking, toddler style

Bean with icing

Nom noms!

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If you can’t stand the heat…

I have a fridge full of vegetables and other delicious dinner-like items (although sadly no salad – I think someone overlooked the weather forecast before doing the weekly shop and I can be snide about it because that someone wasn’t me. I was too busy lying on the couch having ‘mummy time’.) Anyhoo, there’s ample food in there.  But we’ll be having pizza tonight. The Fireman can go fetch it after work. Don’t worry, I’m not completely heartless: he can have a cold drink first.

There is just no way I’m going to stand near a hot stove or oven or even a goddamn microwave. 

It’s 42 degrees celsius today. Otherwise described as somewhere between Extremely Hot and Too Fucking Hot To Live.

And so I’d like to raise my Slurpee cup to my feminist foremothers, without whom I would no doubt be baking up a storm in my sweltering kitchen, sweat pooling in between my apron and nice firm undergarments right now. Oh how we take for granted the right to be slovenly.

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Popcorn of solace

There’s something about movie popcorn.

I know that eating food for emotional reasons is a big no-no. I’m a SAHM after all (no, not Seeking Available Hot Man) and that means the occasional accidental Oprah. And that Oprah, she’s all about telling us how not to comfort eat whilst looking like the most comfortable butter-pawed cat you ever saw.

But I do think the food-feeling relationship is hardwired into us so regardless of how much self-help we do (or how much self we have to help), food is always going to be more than just fuel to humans. The first relationship a baby has with food is the same relationship she has with her mother’s breast and by extension, her mother. Do we really want to say that’s not about feeling something?

Popcorn is comfort food because it feels fun. You don’t eat popcorn at a work conference. You don’t eat it at a wake. If you live with an infant who likes to practically hoover the floor each day in search of dangerous things to inhale, you don’t eat it at all.

Movie popcorn in particular is one of those evocative foods. We don’t actually eat it because it tastes good. Barring salt, there’s no recognisable naturally occuring flavour going on, and it’s usually too cold, and falls down your front and itches. You have to scrabble around a grossly overpriced paper bucket for it and you get scummy fingernails as a result. But it’s salty and buttery and barely resembles reality and thus the perfect accompaniment to a blockbuster.

Thanks to the wonderfully modern invention of Cry Baby sessions (how else are yummy mummies meant to keep up with what Angelina’s post-twin body is doing these days?) I’ve been to a few movies with the Bean. I’ve not been totally deprived of bigscreentime. But the popcorn has been sadly lacking. Even if I tried I couldn’t carry a box of the stuff as well as a nappy bag and a squirmy baby without risking dropping the whole lot at my feet faster than you can say major choking hazard.

Which brings me to the real point of this – comfort food is more comforting if you have less of it!

Yesterday, the Fireman and I were allocated a few Bean free hours and we chose to spend them indulging in the very best mutually pleasurable delight on offer. We went to see Quantum of Solace.  He delighted in the car chases, I delighted in Daniel Craig – now that’s bonding. But anyhow – pretty much the best part of all was the sharing the totally over-flavoured and under-warmed popcorn. One big shared box of that ‘you’ve got no responsibilites for a couple of hours and it’s dark in here so no one will notice if you cop a feel and/or fall asleep’ festive feeling did us a world of good.

See – comfort eating totally can be good for you in moderation. Take that, Oprah.

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